Mazda3 - MazdaSpeed3 Transmission Swap

Courtesy:Verto
Link: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=172769.0

This Information Pertains to Swapping from an '05 with a 5 speed G35M-R, to the speed3's A26M-R. Your Parts May Vary.

Non-ABS cars and Automatics will not have a speedo if you do this swap. This is due to the fact that non-abs and automatic cars use a speed sensor on the transmission. Cars with ABS use the ABS sensors to drive the speedo.

This parts list pertains to my '05 MZ3 with the 5 Speed Manual, your parts may vary.

Transmission:
Stock - G35m-R
MS3 - A26m-R

Obviously Need The Transmission.
Stock Used Price - $400-$1000 depending on mileage
MS3 Used Price - $1000-1500 depending on mileage
I Bought One For $1281. From An '07 MS3, 40k Miles, 100 Day Parts Warranty.

Transmission Sensors:
Stock - Neutral + Reverse Switch (Optional Speed Sensor)
MS3 - Neutral + Reverse Switch

Sensors Are Compatible For All Manuals With ABS. Speedo Uses ABS Sensors.
If you have a manual car with ABS your speedo will still work, if not then you are SOL.

Axle Diameter As Measured At The Hubs:
Stock - 1.083in (measured on top of splines)
Stock - 1.063 (measured between the splines)

MS3 - 1.125in (measured on top of splines)
MS3 - 1.083in (measured between the splines)

Hub Sizes Are Different. Need To Replace Hubs.
Stock Used Price - $50-125 ea.
MS3 Used Price - $40-125 ea.

Axle Diameter As Measured At The Differential:
Stock - (measured at top of splines)
Stock - (measured between the splines)

MS3 - (measured at top of splines)
MS3 - (measured between the splines)

Axle Sizes Are Different. Need To Replace Axles.
Stock Used Price - $100-200 for a set
MS3 Used Price - $300-400 for a set

Input Shaft Diameter:
Stock - (measured at top of splines)
Stock - (measured between the splines)
Stock - 22 teeth

MS3 - (measured at top of splines)
MS3 - (measured between the splines)
MS3 - ? teeth

Input Shaft Sizes Are Different. Need to Replace Clutch.

Flywheel Depth:
Stock - (depth)
Stock - (diameter)

MS3 - (depth)
MS3 - (diameter)

Flywheels Are Different Depths. MS3 Flywheel Is Dual Mass And Much Thicker. Need To Replace Flywheel.

Slave Cylinder Configuration:
Slave Cylinders Are Compatible.
Slave Cylinders Have Different Piston Diameters. This Greatly Changes Pedal Effort. MS3 Slave Strongly Recommended.

Shifter Configuration:
Shifters And Cables Are Different. Need To Replace Shift Assembly.

Gear Ratios:
Mazda 3:
1 3.307
2 1.842
3 1.310
4 0.970
5 0.755
R 3.166
Final 4.105

Mazdaspeed 3:
1 3.538
2 2.238
3 1.535
4 1.171
5 1.085
6 0.853
R 3.831
Final
1-4 3.941
5-6 3.350

Pics Of All Parts Needed For 6-Speed Swap

Transmission





Axle Measurements





Input Shaft Measurements





Pressure Plate Measurement


Clutch Measurement


Flywheel Measurement



Shifter


Shifter Linkage Measurement



Hubs



Rear Motor Mount Bracket


Axle Seals


Rear Main Seal


Install Procedure

This procedure is for an '05 MTX. This is how I chose to do it, there are different ways, but having pulled the trans before, this is what I think is the fastest and easiest to do, WITHOUT A LIFT.

1) Raise front of car on jack stands as high as you can

2) Remove the front wheels

3) Use an impact to remove the axle nut/bolt (NOTE: if you do not have an impact, have someone hold the brakes while you loosen the nut/bolt)

4) Remove the brake caliper and caliper bracket

5) Remove the bolt which holds the lower ball joint in place

6) Remove the 3 bolts which holds the lower control arms on (NOTE: You will need a very long breaker bar for this)

7) Remove the LCAs and set it aside

8) Remove the 3 bolts which mount the strut hat to the tower

9) Remove the entire strut assembly from the car

10) Remove the bolt which holds the steering knuckle to the strut

11) Using a maul hammer, hammer on the steering knuckle to separate it from the strut

12) Using a maul hammer, hammer the new steering knuckle onto the strut (NOTE: be sure you have the correct side knuckle)

13) Insert and tighten the bolt that holds the steering knuckle to the strut

14) Set the struts aside

15) Remove all plastic covers in engine compartment

16) Disconnect the battery

17) Remove the battery

18) Disconnect the ECU

19) Remove the 3 bolts which hold the battery tray in place

20) Remove the battery tray and set it aside

21) Remove your intake

22) Remove the 4 bolts which hold the header heat shield in place

23) Slide the header heat shield back towards the firewall (NOTE: you do not need to full remove this, just slide it back for clearance)

24) remove the 4 nuts which hold the drivers side mount bracket in place

25) Remove the 2 nuts which hold the battery box bracket in place

26) Remove the battery box bracket and set it aside

27) Drain the transmission of oil

28) Remove the 3 bolts which hold the passenger side jack shaft in place

29) Remove the passenger side axle assembly (NOTE: I left the drivers side axle in until the trans was out. it is hard to get out due to the snap ring)

30) Remove the 3 bolts which attach the rear motor mount bracket

31) Remove the rear motor mount

32) Place a floor jack with a block of wood under the engine

33) Pump the jack until the wood contacts the oil pan, then give it 1-2 more pumps until it is supporting the engines weight (NOTE: do not lift the engine too much)

34) Loosen the bolts around the perimeter of the transmission bell housing (NOTE: do not remove the bolts all the way yet)

35) Place a transmission jack under the transmission and pump it until it is supporting the transmission

36) Remove the bolt which attaches the transmission to the drivers side mount (NOTE: you are going to need that breaker bar again)

37) Remove the drivers side mount

38) Remove the shifter cables from the transmission

39) Unplug the 3 connectors on the transmission

40) Remove the 2 bolts that hold the slave cylinder on

41) Remove all the bolts around the perimeter of the transmission bell housing

42) Separate the transmission from the engine

43) Lower the transmission out of the engine bay and then slide it from under the car

44) Remove the 6 bolts that hold the pressure plate on (NOTE: you will need an impact for this)

45) Remove the clutch and pressure plate

46) Remove the 6 bolts that hold the flywheel on (NOTE: you will need an impact for this)

47) Rock the flywheel back and forth to remove it

48) Remove the 6 bolts that hold the rear main seal on

49) Carefully pry off the rear main seal

50) Put a bead of RTV along the where the block meets the pan and install the new rear main seal (NOTE: read the directions on rear main seal)

51) Use a seal puller to remove the pilot bearing (NOTE: This is difficult to do as it does not want to come out, be very careful when doing this as you will mangle it)

52) Insert the new pilot bearing and use a socket to tap it in place

53) Remove the release bearing from the MS3 transmission

54) Install the new release bearing on the MS3 transmission

55) Install the MS3 flywheel

56) Insert and tighten the 6 flywheel bolts to spec

57) Place the pressure plate and clutch against the flywheel and insert the alignment tool

58) Insert and tighten the 6 pressure plate bolts

59) Remove the alignment tool

60) Remove the interior kick panels around the tunnel

61) Remove the 2 nuts that hold the shifter linkage to the firewall

62) Remove the 4 bolts that hold the shifter base to the floor

63) Remove the shifter base

64) Slide the shifter linkage into the interior of the car and remove it

65) Slide the new shifter linkage through the hole in the firewall and into the engine bay

66) Install and tighten the 2 nuts that hold the linkage to the firewall

67) Install the 4 bolts that hold the shifter base to the floor

68) Apply some anti-seize to the end of the MS3 transmission input shaft (NOTE: this is to make it easier to slide into the clutch disc)

69) Place the transmission on the trans jack and slide it under the car

70) Lower the engine slightly so it is at a bit of an angle

71) Jack the transmission into place (NOTE: you will need to make sure the trans is in the correct orientation in order to get it to fit in)

72) Slide the input shaft into the clutch and make sure everything is lined up

73) Push the transmission into the engine

74) Insert the bolts that attach the transmission bell hosuing to the engine and finger tighten them

75) Gradually tighten the bolts until the gap between the engine and transmission closes

76) Jack the engine and transmission up until they are level again

77) Tighten down all the bell housing bolts to spec

78) Place the drivers side mount in place

79) Jack the transmission up until it is flush witht he mount

80) Insert and tighten the drivers side mount bolt

81) Lower the transmission jack and remove the jack from under the engine

82) Remove the axle seals with a seal puller

83) Install the new axle seals by gently hammering them in with a socket

84) Install the Axles and fill the transmission with oil

85) Insert and tighten the 3 jack shaft mounting bolts

86) Install and tighten the rear motor mount

87) Insert and tighten the 3 rear motor mount bracket bolts

88) Insert and tighten the 2 bolts that hold the shifter linkage bracket to the transmission

89) Insert and tighten the 2 bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the transmission

90) Install the struts

91) Insert and tighten the 3 bolts that hold the strut hat to the strut tower

92) Insert the axle into the hub

93) Install the LCA

94) Insert and tighten the 3 bolts that hold the LCA in place

95) Install the lower ball joint into the knuckle

96) Insert and tighten the bolt that holds the lower ball joint in place

97) Install the brake caliper bracket

98) Install the brake caliper

99) Install and tighten the axle nut (NOTE: you need an impact for this, or have someone hold the brake pedal)

100) Install the wheels and lower the car
101) DONE!