Parts that were ordered:
$119- Hub assembly (comes with studs pre-installed)
$56- Bearing assembly
$4- New axle nut
Below picture is courtesy of WaiJai. It includes everything I bought, just missing the axle nut. Nut is not required, but it's for my own piece of mind.
The hub assembly is also NOT required to replace the bearing, but again, it's for my own piece of mind.
Tools that are required:
Pliers - to remove cotter pin (not pictured)
32 axle nut socket - to remove axle nut (rent from Autozone)
Breaker bar - to remove axle nut and other bolts/nuts
19 mm socket (will vary depending on lug nut size) - remove wheel
1/2" socket - to remove Stoptech caliper from mounting bracket IF you have stock brakes or OEM brembos, may need a 19 mm socket.
17 mm socket - to remove four bolts holding bearing to axle
various 3/8" extensions
Bearing puller - rent from autozone
Brush to clean up
Shop with a Press - you will need to have the new wheel bearing pressed onto the new hub. I plan on going to the dealership to get this done.
Step 1 - Jack up the rear of the car and place jackstands to support the car
Step 2 - Remove rear wheel
Step 3 - Remove cotter pin with pliers
Step 4 - Apply E-Brake or have someone step on the brakes
Step 5 - Remove axle nut (will require the use of the breaker bar)
Step 6 - Remove nuts/bolts holding caliper to rotor. Secure caliper so that it is not hanging from the brake line
Step 7 - Remove rotor
Here is a pic of what it should like:
Here is the back of the axle showing the four bolts that secure the bearing to the axle:
arrow in red shows the bolts
arrow in the blue shows something I'll describe later
When everything is installed, there is ZERO chance of you ever getting a socket to get to those four bolts. The service manual actually has you remove all the suspension components attached to the axle and remove it to get access to those four bolts. The gap you see between the drive shaft and the axle (blue arrow in above picture) is a result of me pushing on the end of the shaft. I can now fit a 17mm socket, but not a ratchet.
red arrow shows end of shaft
blue arrow shows hub assembly
I suspect after I get the bearing puller tomorrow, and pull the hub/bearing, it'll push the shaft in a little bit further to give me the room I need to get a socket, swivel joint and ratchet to break those bolts loose.
here is the bearing puller attached to the hub. crank down on the center with a 1/2" socket to separate the hub from the bearing.
picture of area after hub is removed:
picture of hub removed:
You do not need to remove any suspension components to get access to those four bolts that hold the bearing in place. As I suspected, the shaft can be pushed in far enough to give you access to those four bolts. You'll need a 17mm socket and two different extensions to get to those bolts. First picture below is without the shaft pushed in and second picture is with it pushed in far enough to get access to the bolts. In the picture, I had already removed the bolts.
Picture after the bearing is removed:
Still waiting for parts to arrive before I put everything back together. Bearing looks to be in good shape. Below is a picture of Joaquin03's bearing compared to mine. His car has 133,000 miles on it. I still believe that when I drove around with a loose axle nut, it ruined my bearings. Hopefully I have made the correct diagnosis.
all the parts arrived today. i am starting to realize if you just wanted to replace the bearing, all you need to buy is the bearing. the seal back is a metal seal and probably doesn't need to be replaced nor does the nut or the hub. so maybe you shouldn;t waste the money like I did. i'll continue to convince myself it is best to replace everything
okay...got my bearing pressed on to the hub by a friend of mine who had a press
you can see that the bearing has a top and a bottom. it will not line up to the bolt holes if you install it the wrong way. Here you can see the marking indicating top of the bearing.
At this point I tried installing the hub/bearing assembly on to the axle and drive shaft and realized I did not have the appropriate knowledge or tools to do so. When I removed the assembly, I was able to get access to the bolts by first removing the hub and than the bearing. Obviously when you go to install it, the bearing and hub are one assembly and I had no access to the bolts to properly get to them and torque them to spec.
i did what others here have done and removed the drive shaft from the differential. There are 6 nuts that you need to loosen. You will need a 14 mm socket as well as a 14 mm open ended wrench (wrench for when you re-assemble). At first it looks like you do not have access to the bolts, but by rotating the drive shaft as you loosen each bolt, you get access to all of them.
i do not have a picture, but the 6 nuts bolt the drive shaft to the differential and are pretty obvious when you see them.
You will also have to remove the bolt (17 mm) that attaches the rear lower link to the axle. You have to use a jack to jack up the rear lower link to give the suspension some slack so you can get the bolt out. This gives you room to wiggle the drive shaft out.
Picture of the area:
Picture of drive shaft removed:
With the drive shaft removed, I hammered out the old metal seal and placed the new one on. The seal gets tightened as you tighten the axle nut, so for now, just place it on by hand
new seal placed on:
install the bearing/hub assembly and tighten the four bolts to 56-69 ft-lb.
NOTE: you'll also need to remove the bolt that that holds the e-brake cable (no need to remove the cable itself). you can see it in the above picture in black. this will allow you to wiggle it out of the way to get better access to tighten the 6 nuts on the drive shaft.
install the drive shaft. it's kinda tricky to do this because my exhaust got in the way. I didn't want to have to remove the exhaust, so I improvised and just wiggled it to get it on. the owner's manual says, "do not apply an excessive angle to the drive shaft joint".
tighten the six nuts on the drive shaft to 47-58 ft-lb.
place the axle nut and hand tighten. place your rotor back on and pull the e-brake. now tighten the axle nut to 152-202 ft-lb.
put back cotter pin, put back rotor and caliper and wheel and testdrive
The noise that was there before is not there anymore, so to me is was $200 well spent. If anyone goes through this install and finds a better way to do things, than please continue to add to this thread.